How to make a cutting board

How to make a cutting board, step by step

Last reviewed July 2, 2026.

This is the full build for a simple edge grain board, the best first project. The hands-on work is a few hours, and the rest is glue curing and oil soaking.

What you need

Wood: a few board feet of food-safe hardwood like maple, walnut, or cherry. See best wood for cutting boards to choose.

Glue: a waterproof wood glue, such as a Type I PVA, which is food safe once it has fully cured.

Tools: a saw to cut strips, clamps, a way to flatten the panel (a planer for edge grain, or a sander or hand plane), sandpaper in a few grits, and food-grade mineral oil.

Step 1: Pick and prep the wood

Start with kiln-dried hardwood that is flat and dry. If the boards are rough, flatten one face and one edge so you have square reference surfaces. Plan your final size: around 12 by 18 inches is a good all-purpose board, and buy a little extra for trimming. Maple, walnut, and cherry are the usual picks: hard, food-safe, and easy to find. Let rough lumber sit in your shop for a few days so it settles before you cut.

Step 2: Cut your strips

Rip the wood into strips of equal width, usually 1.5 to 2 inches, with the saw set square. For an edge grain board you will stand these strips on edge and glue them side by side. Keep the widths consistent so the strips line up with little gap. Cut one or two extra strips so you can drop any with a knot or wild grain before glue-up.

Step 3: Glue up the board

Lay the strips on edge in the order and pattern you want, alternating the grain direction of each strip so the board stays flat. Spread a thin, even coat of waterproof glue on the mating faces, clamp until a small bead of glue squeezes out along the seams, and check that the panel is flat. Wipe off the wet glue and let it cure fully, usually overnight, before you unclamp. A waterproof, food-safe glue like Titebond III is the standard choice, and a damp rag wipes the squeeze-out before it skins over.

Step 4: Flatten the panel

Once the glue is cured, flatten both faces so the board is level. An edge grain board can take light passes through a planer, or you can use a drum sander, a router sled, or a hand plane and a sanding block. Take off just enough to remove the glue lines and level the strips. Check the board against a straightedge as you go, and stop once it sits flat with no rock.

Step 5: Trim it square

Cut the panel to its final size, trimming the ends clean and square. This removes any uneven strip ends and sets the finished dimensions. A crosscut sled or a guided saw keeps the ends true. Mark the final length on both ends and keep one edge as your reference so opposite sides stay parallel.

Step 6: Ease the edges and sand

Soften the sharp top and bottom edges with a small roundover or a few passes of sandpaper, and round the corners so they sit comfortably in the hand. Then sand the whole board through the grits, for example 120, then 180, then 220, wiping off the dust between passes, until the surface is smooth. A 1/8 inch roundover bit gives a clean, even edge, but a sanding block does the same job by hand.

Step 7: Raise the grain, then finish

Wipe the board with a damp cloth to raise the grain, let it dry, and give it a final light sand with the finest grit. Then finish with food-grade mineral oil: flood the surface, let it soak for a few hours or overnight, wipe off the excess, and repeat for several coats until the wood stops drinking. An optional beeswax board cream on top adds water resistance. The full method is in how to oil a cutting board. Three or four coats of oil is usually enough for a board that gets daily use, and a fresh coat each month keeps it sealed.

How long does it take?

A simple edge grain board is a weekend project. The active work, cutting, glue-up, flattening, and sanding, takes a few hours. Most of the calendar time is waiting: overnight for the glue to cure, and a few days of oil coats for the finish. End grain boards take longer because of the extra cutting and the more careful flattening.

Edge grain or end grain for a first board?

Build edge grain first. It uses fewer steps, less wood, and standard tools, and it teaches the core skills of glue-up, flattening, and finishing. Once you are comfortable, an end grain board is the natural next step for a surface that is easier on knives. See cutting board designs for the difference.

Common first-board mistakes

The usual stumbles are skipping flat reference surfaces before the glue-up, using too little glue or uneven clamp pressure, and rushing the cure. Two more: forgetting to alternate the grain, which lets the board cup, and putting the board to work before it is oiled. Take your time on the glue-up and the finish, and the board will last for decades.

Keeping your board for the long run

A finished board needs simple care: hand wash with warm soapy water, dry it on edge, keep it out of the dishwasher, and re-oil it when the surface looks dry. See how to clean a wooden cutting board for the routine.

Why make your own cutting board?

A board you build yourself fits your kitchen and your budget. You pick the size, the wood, and the thickness, you get a solid hardwood board for less than a comparable one in a store, and you end up with a piece that lasts for decades and can be resurfaced when it wears. It is also one of the most satisfying first woodworking projects, with a useful result at the end.

Can you make a board without power tools?

Yes. You can build a simple edge grain board with hand tools: a handsaw to cut the strips, a hand plane to flatten and smooth, clamps for the glue-up, and sandpaper. It takes more effort and patience than using a tablesaw and planer, but the result is the same. Many first boards are made with a modest set of tools.

Choosing and using the glue

Use a waterproof wood glue rated for full water exposure, often labeled Type I. These cure to a bond that holds up to washing and are considered safe for food contact once fully cured. Spread a thin, even layer on both faces of each joint, since too much makes a mess and too little leaves gaps. Clamp with even pressure across the whole panel, and give the glue the full cure time on the label before you work the board.

A few shop-safety notes

Cutting and sanding wood is safe with basic care. Keep your fingers clear of the blade and use a push stick on a tablesaw. Wear eye protection, and a dust mask when sanding, since wood dust is an irritant. Work in a ventilated space when you oil the board, and let oily rags dry flat or soak in water before you bin them, because some finishing oils heat up as they cure.

Tools worth buying for your first board

You can build a board with very little, but a few tools make it easier. Clamps are the one thing you cannot skip, and more is better for an even glue-up. A way to flatten the panel, a planer, a drum sander, or a sharp hand plane, saves a lot of sanding. A random orbit sander speeds up the finish work. Beyond that, a saw you trust to cut square and a tape measure cover the basics.

How to know your board is food safe

Three things make a board food safe: a food-safe hardwood, a waterproof glue that has fully cured, and a food-grade finish like mineral oil or a beeswax cream. Avoid treated or unknown wood, let the glue cure fully before the board touches food, and skip any finish that does not say food safe. Keep the board clean, dry, and oiled, and it stays safe for years.

After the build: the first few weeks

A new board needs a little extra attention at first. Give it several oil coats over the first few days so the wood is well conditioned before heavy use. For the first couple of weeks, oil it whenever the surface looks dry, then settle into a monthly routine. Hand wash it from day one and keep it out of the dishwasher.

Resurfacing a board you made

One advantage of a solid hardwood board is that you can renew it. When the surface gets deeply scarred or stained after years of use, sand it flat again, work up through the grits, and re-oil it, and the board comes back close to new. A bought board with a thin veneer or a plastic core cannot be brought back this way, which is one more reason to build solid.

How much does it cost to make a cutting board?

The main cost is the wood. A small edge grain board in maple uses only a few board feet, so it is inexpensive, while a large end grain board in walnut uses more wood and costs more. Glue and oil are cheap and last across many boards. If you already own basic tools, building a board often costs less than buying a comparable solid hardwood one, and you control the size and quality.